Sunday, February 13, 2011

My Daughter Wants A Brazilian

Liberté, égalité, Fraternité? ... Sarkozyté! We are all multilingual

Entry to the town of Ciboure (left of picture)
on the bridge over the Charles de Gaulle Nivelle River.
On the right, Saint-Jean-de-Luz.

(Photo: Albert Lazaro Tinaut)

Ciboure (Ziburu in Basque) is a small village separated by the river Nivelle (Ur Ertsi in Basque, whose waters come from lands of Navarre) of other largest and best known: Saint-Jean-de-Luz (Donibane Lohizune), with which it shares a small railway station and river port. To pass from one to the other must cross the river with a boat (usually in a boat-ferry service for passengers) or a short walk, cross the river by the bridge Charles de Gaulle of the road D 810 ( a branch -named there- avenue Jean Jaurès the main road that links Paris to Hendaye and Irun international bridge) and down towards the sea on the other side.

The passerby took a recent trip to San Sebastian to visit these two towns on the French side of Euskal Herria [1] . Enjoyed peace first winter in Saint-Jean-de-Luz, where she ate splendidly, and took the early afternoon, before embarking on the return trip to San Sebastian to shop around Ciboure, whose input had installed a large amusement park in which the children seemed enjoy leisure, sweets and cotton candy that is known as barbe à potato.

This time is not going to describe such beautiful places, but take the opportunity to say that in Ciboure born in 1875 the composer Maurice Ravel, the famous and magnificent Boléro (so misunderstood many times.) Will have a little adventure, one of those experiences that make sense, despite everything, life of the traveler.

The church of Saint Vincent and the
Croix blanche in Ciboure.

(Photo: Albert Lazaro Tinaut)

With his camera always ready to capture the unusual, ephemeral and what catches your eye, the pedestrian walked past the church of Saint Vincent (with its "White Cross", step one of the branches of the Way Santiago) and entered the Rue Pocalette, parallel to the promenade that follows the river bank. He made several shots and details of the facades of these beautiful houses that characterize the Basque lands, with cheerfully painted timber (blue, green, scarlet ...) and carefree and yet what was offered to his eyes, was surprised at the mouth of that street by three gendarmes who immediately surrounded him and asked, point-blank, what was photographed.

"Pardon, monsieur , but on the street you passed is forbidden to take photographs. Show me the clichés .


"I have not seen any sign that indicated," said the bystander, who often have much aplomb in such cases, it has gone through similar experiences in countries under totalitarian regimes. It was assumed that it was not the case in France, so that nothing should be feared.


the policeman was watching the images on the camera screen and forced the passer to delete some, which he did you weigh wrong, sorry had not been planted now so capricious decision to a nobody in uniform. Sometimes it costs a bit hot to react.


One of the few photos of the rue Pocalette
managed to save the passer.

(Photo: Albert Lazaro Tinaut)

-A ID, please ... (pièce d'identité is said in French, to the surprise of outsiders, who would appear to France's identity can be broken).

- I can know what this is?

"Nothing, monsieur , it's just a routine check.


The policeman who had taken the identity of the passer-by walked away, connected to your radio to some mysterious place and conveyed to his mysterious interlocutor also suspect data, which meanwhile was guarded by his other two companions. Farther along the waterfront, along the river, were two mobile vans and six or seven policemen.

At one point, the data transmitting approached bystander and asked what was the enigmatic abbreviation "c /" preceding the name of the street where you live.

-means rue , monsieur.

"Ah, le lime ..." sighed reassured after having displayed his great anglais, and retraced his steps.


The mouth of the river Nivelle
from Ciboure docks (where the police were stationed

with their vans). On the right,
lighthouse Saint-Jean-de-Luz.

(Photo: Albert Lazaro Tinaut)


One of the soldiers who retained the passer (but not get their hands on at any time, had just missed it!) Began to interrogate him. He was struck by the suspect as fluently speak French and asked him what was owed. Was the suspect lived in France? No? étonnant. .. Instead of answering, the suspect blurted, ironic (always in fluent French, of course):

"There are other languages \u200b\u200bthat I speak better.


- Do you speak Basque? -Was beginning to glimpse the shots where they were going.

-No.


"But do you understand?


"Why do you want to know these things, whether it is a routine check, as you say.

-obey orders, M. .

A typical panier à salade
('bowl
'), as they are popularly known

mobile vans of the French Gendarmerie.

(Photo: Collection CHARLYDESIGN93)

not know why (or maybe yes), the passerby happened to him over the head other times I had heard and read that sentence: Nazis executing following orders, Communist agents always obeyed orders, the killers of the bloodiest dictatorships defended themselves in court with the same statement and trying to pass the accountability of their atrocities to higher authorities. Decided cause:

"If you question me, do things properly: take me to the station, put me in contact with a English diplomat to provide a lawyer and I know my situation ...


"But ... M. , please do not exaggerate ...


"Hey, gendarme - the passer and did not seem a M. : no more good manners and formalities it was time! - , if someone exaggerates and ride the chicken ( in a fromage fait tout , we say in French), is you.

- Be careful what you say, monsieur !

"Listen, I am a free citizen and honest and I think being in a free country ...


"No doubt, but in the present circumstances ... know what I mean ... aliens ...


Ay what he said! The passerby would not let him finish the sentence, so he does not know how I would finish it, or cares.


- I'm an alien! I am a European citizen and I am chez moi (ie at home), you know what I mean? Or is that France has been discharged from the EU and I have not heard, gendarme?


Saint-Jean-de-Luz from Ciboure.
(Photo, Albert Lazaro Tinaut)

Transient somewhat feigned indignation and contempt by uttering the word gendarme, separating the syllables a little, but the truth is beginning to have fun. The officer hesitated, not knowing what to say, felt helpless in spite of the weapons that hung from his waist.


His companion, who had remained silent, touched his shoulder to reassure him, and the third returned to his radio and asked who played the man she had been nervous to write down all the parentage of a passer, which made in a small notebook.


"Well, what can you tell me what happens, gendarmes? Because at this rate I'm going to miss the train.


"No, do not worry, M. . We have already said that it is a routine check, "replied the radiotelephone.


- Bonjour, the routine ...! (rutuina ... Well go!)-Once again, the pedestrian could not avoid the provocative irony.

"No we do not reproach ... is ... is simply that on that street whose house is a minister," he added, lowering his voice (maybe it should be understood as the "minister" in women, given that a senior member of the French government, a woman she was mayor of Saint-Jean-de-Luz, as ascertained after the passer on the Internet) -. In France the law prohibits photographing any public building, "continued the policeman in question, in a conciliatory tone: a municipality, a Prefecture, a train station ... I tell you to take this into account. We are here for something ( pour quelque chose), Understand them.


Detail of a facade Ciboure.
(Photo: Albert Lazaro Tinaut)

The house of a minister, male or female (public persona), proved to be a public building, with the peculiarity that there was no indication that special status.

-Note, and thank you very much, monsieur said he had jotted down thoroughly the data on the card (do not know if they even copied the picture ...), as he returned to his transient identity.

"For this part can take clichés of all you want," added the radiotelephone forced a smile and showing with a sweeping gesture your right hand side of the river waterfront. The pedestrian was about to ask them to put it to portray, but declined, preferring to be more Provice the rude and turn our back to go his way. This is what in Spain is popularly said "goodbye to the French" and the French say "filer à l'anglaise " (scoot to the English).

railway station Saint-Jean-de-Luz - Ciboure.
(Photo: Albert Lazaro Tinaut)

had been an interesting experience especially to check that it is said that the French Presidential Republic has become a police state since Monsieur Nicolas Sarkozy (Sarko for the populace) work at the helm and "engineer" at a time. In the 70's of last century, the passer-bearded and denim clothing, to whom it happens! - Had been detained arbitrarily in the north of Argentina (especially in the airport of Resistance, a name that already brings them in Chaco province) and subjected to summary trial almost an immense military would not have fit in a closet with two bodies, and not let go until the very slow telephone with a center Buenos Aires safety assured him that there were no suspects in its name or its characteristics, and also stopped briefly in Esztergom, north of communist Hungary, having witnessed a street fight. After the Basque-French experience is formed in the mind, by a curious association of ideas, a new and absurd toponym irónicopolítico: Soviet Republic Sarkozyana (RSS).


You go carefully, because the borders still exist in the Europe of love and I can not so disjointed as ever. In Irun it clearly said the passerby, the alleged disappearance of physical boundaries hoped that, somehow, the establishment of something like this utopian Republic of Bidasoa with naively dreamed Pio Baroja, "a republic without priests, without dogmas that plague us, no flies and no police," as he recalled his nephew, Pius Caro Baroja, during the opening in the center of the widening iruña the monument to the great author of the so-called Generation 98 (such as enemy he honors) [2] to mark the fiftieth anniversary of his death in 2006. But that also was a utopian dream: The relationships between the populations on both sides of the river Bidasoa are virtually non-existent, and attempts to organize joint events have almost always failed.


Details monument in Piazza Pio Baroja Zabaltza of Irun, Spain artist
work of Sebastian Miranda, opened in 2006.

(Photo: Albert Lazaro Tinaut)

the Pyrenees not only separate the Iberian peninsula from the rest of Europe, not just the Alps separate two concepts of Europe, not only divided the waters of the Rhine the territories of France and Germany. What most separates Europeans from either state is the lack of will: Yes this is common!



[1] The name, in Basque, of what is known as the Basque Castilian, ie the European-documented since the sixteenth century, divided between French and English states, which reveal the culture and Basque language.
[2] Baroja was expressed by the mouth of one of his most famous characters, the sailor autobiographer Shanti Andia: "To me, truth, glory excites me. The glory is not for the rainy countries, have a statue on the Mediterranean, a city of Andalusia, Valencia and the Italian border, OK, but what can I do if I prize this book up a statue in Luzaro? Is being constantly receiving rain in the back? No, no, I am very rheumatic and not in effigy, I'd be so in the open. "

Do click on pictures to enlarge.

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